Twin Cam Cam Chain Tensioners: Inspection and the Shoe Wear Problem

The chain inside the Twin Cam engine that nobody talks about until its tensioner shoe is in pieces.

Does this apply to your bike? Twin Cam engines only: 88, 96, 103 and 110, in Softail, Dyna and Touring bikes from 1999 to 2017 (Touring to 2016). The earlier Evolution Big Twin and every Sportster drive their cams with gears, so they have no cam chain. The Milwaukee-Eight is a different single-cam design and is not covered here.
DifficultyAdvanced
TimeHalf a day to inspect · a day to replace tensioners or fit a gear drive

The Twin Cam is the only Big Twin that drives its cams with chains: an inner chain from the crank to the rear cam, and an outer chain linking the two cams. Each chain is held tight by a spring-loaded tensioner with a plastic shoe riding on it. On the 1999-2006 engines those shoes are known to wear, sometimes down to the metal, and the debris goes where the oil goes. You cannot hear it happening, so the only way to know is to look.

Harley-Davidson's own patent drawing of the Twin Cam cam drive: cam support plate, cam sprockets and the outer chain coming off (US patent 6,112,712, sheet 1).
Harley-Davidson's own patent drawing of the Twin Cam cam drive: cam support plate, cam sprockets and the outer chain coming off (US patent 6,112,712, sheet 1).
The same patent, sheet 2: the tensioner and its shoe bearing against the chain run.
The same patent, sheet 2: the tensioner and its shoe bearing against the chain run.

Tools

Know which tensioner you have

1999-2006 Twin Cam (88 and early 96 parts): spring-loaded tensioners with relatively narrow shoes. These are the ones with the reputation. Our catalogue carries replacement tensioners, the tensioner pad and pin, a full cam chain and tensioner kit, and a hydraulic tensioner conversion kit for this era.

2006 Dyna and 2007-2017 Twin Cam 96/103/110: Harley moved to hydraulic tensioners with wider shoes and a different cam support plate. They last far longer, but they are still a wear item on high-mileage or hard-run engines, and they are worth a look whenever the cam cover is off for cams.

Parts are NOT interchangeable between the two eras: the cam support plates are listed separately and the tensioners differ. Year first, parts second.

Symptoms, and why there usually are none

A worn shoe makes no reliable noise until it is very far gone. Some owners report a tick or rattle from the right side, but the more common first sign is bits of orange or black plastic in the oil filter or on the drain plug magnet when it is cut open or wiped. Cutting open the oil filter at an oil change is a cheap way to watch for it.

If the shoe wears through, the chain runs on the tensioner's metal body. That produces metal debris in the oil, which is the outcome this inspection exists to prevent.

Getting to the cam chest

Battery negative off. The cam cover is on the right side of the engine behind the exhaust, so the pipes come off first. Have a fresh cam cover gasket ready before you start; reusing the old one is a common source of a weep that gets blamed on something else.

With the cover off you see the outer chain and its tensioner straight away. That is the shoe most people judge the engine by. The inner chain and its tensioner sit behind the cam support plate and need more disassembly to see properly; the manual sets the order and the tools, including how to unload and pin the tensioners.

Reading the shoe

Look at the face where the chain rides. A shoe in good health shows an even, shallow track. Worry when the track is deep, when the edges are chipped or cracked, when the chain has cut grooves, or when pieces are missing. Compare against a new shoe if you can get one in your hand; the difference in thickness is obvious once you see both.

Collect anything loose in the cam chest before it goes back together, and find where missing pieces went. A chunk that reaches the oil pump is the real damage.

Your options

Replace like for like: new tensioner shoes or tensioner assemblies for your era. The cheapest answer, and it buys more years of the same wear pattern.

Hydraulic tensioner conversion (1999-2006): fits the later-style hydraulic tensioners and the matching support plate to an early engine. More money, and a longer-lived result.

Gear drive: replaces the chains with gears, removing the tensioners altogether. Usually done alongside a cam upgrade; it needs correct gear selection to the case and crank, and it is the most specialised of the three. A shop with Twin Cam experience is the right call if you have not done one.

Whichever you pick, follow the manual for the cam timing marks, tensioner unloading and torque. A cam chain fitted one tooth out is an engine that does not run, or worse.

Mistakes that cost money

When to stop

If you find metal in the cam chest, pieces you cannot account for, or scoring on the cam support plate, stop and have the oil pump and bottom end looked at by a Twin Cam specialist before the bike runs again. Debris that has been round the oil system does not stay in the cam chest.

Parts for this job

Check fitment for your own model and year before ordering — add your bike and we will flag what fits.

Cam Chain Guide
10-0487
Cam Chain Guide
$12.89
Twin Cam Chain Tensioner Pad and Pin
12-7910
Twin Cam Chain Tensioner Pad and Pin
$14.58
Cam Chain Sprocket Spacer Kit
10-7001
Cam Chain Sprocket Spacer Kit
$34.54
Ultima Twin Cam Chain Tensioner Tool
16-7408
Ultima Twin Cam Chain Tensioner Tool
$43.25

Other Harley how-to guides

Wheel Bearing InspectionSteering Head Bearing Check and AdjustmentCharging System DiagnosisExhaust Leaks and Gasket Replacement

This guide covers procedure and judgement. Torque figures, fluid capacities, gaps and tension settings are specific to your model and year and must come from the factory service manual for your motorcycle — we deliberately do not print numbers we cannot stand behind for your bike. Independent aftermarket retailer, not affiliated with Harley-Davidson, Inc.